Fitting a Clutch on a Jaguar E-Type (Series 1 with Series 2 Engine/Gearbox)
When fitting your Jaguar E-Type clutch—or really any vehicle—having the right alignment tool makes the job smoother. Unfortunately, these tools aren’t always easy to find. For hobbyists working on a one-off job, the cost can also be hard to justify. I recently replaced a clutch on a Series 1 E-Type. During the process, I discovered it had a Series 2 engine and gearbox fitted. (That story’s coming in another post!) The customer provided a full clutch kit: cover plate, friction plate, and a new release bearing. Yet, it didn’t include a clutch alignment tool.
Luckily, I had access to CAD software and a 3D printer. I designed the tool myself and printed it in black PETG. It worked perfectly (Fig1).
Alignment Tool Options
You can buy steel alignment tools from Jaguar specialists, but they typically cost around £50–£60. That’s a steep price for something you use a handful of times at best. Because of that, I offer our 3D-printed version in our online store [HERE]. You can buy the tool ready-made. Alternatively, if you have access to a 3D printer, you can buy the STL file and print it yourself. It’s a practical, cost-effective choice for classic car enthusiasts.
Removing the Clutch
Tools & parts required:
- Clutch alignment tool [BUY HERE]
- Clutch kit (cover plate & friction plate)
- x6 5/16 spring washers (optional)
- 1/2″ socket / spanner
- Ratchet
- Small leaver / pry bar
- Torque wrench (capable of 22ft lbs or 30Nm)
- Copper grease
- 100 grit emery tape / sand paper
- Brake cleaner and rags / paper towels
After removing the gearbox, you’ll see the clutch cover (see Fig. 3). Use a 1/2″ spanner or socket to remove the six 5/16 UNF x 3/4” setscrews. Don’t forget the spring washers beneath each one. I recommend replacing them with M8 Schnorr washers, which you can find [HERE] or on sites like eBay. Loosen the bolts concentrically—one turn at a time—to release pressure evenly on the drive plate.
The clutch cover and drive plate should come off together. If the drive plate is seized to the flywheel, gently use a small lever bar to pry it off. Be extremely careful not to damage or gouge the flywheel surface.
Inspection and Cleaning
With the clutch removed, place the old components beside the new ones. This quick check ensures everything matches before installation. While you’re at it, take the time to clean the face of the flywheel. I usually use 100-grit emery tape to rough up the surface. Then, I follow up with a wipe-down with brake cleaner to remove dust or oil. Do the same for the new clutch cover to remove any post-manufacture contaminants. Clean parts give your clutch a much better chance at bedding in correctly.
Installing the Clutch and Using the Alignment Tool
Once your parts are clean and laid out, grab your alignment tool. Fit the drive plate onto the tool, making sure the sprung—or “basket”—side faces the rear of the car (see Fig. 4). Carefully insert the tip of the alignment tool into the central hole of the flywheel. Then, slide the drive plate ahead so it meets the surface of the flywheel.
With the drive plate in place, align the clutch cover with the three 0.6 x 0.6 x 1.5cm dowels on the flywheel. Once located, loosely insert the six 5/16 UNF x 3/4” setscrews along with the spring washers. Again, I suggest replacing the washers to make sure they still offer proper locking tension. A thin smear of copper grease on the threads helps with future removal and prevents seizing.
Final Tightening and Torque Settings
Tighten the bolts evenly in a concentric pattern. This helps avoid distorting the clutch plate or creating uneven pressure. Pay attention to the alignment tool during this step—it should stay free and not get pinched. If it’s tight, this indicates the clutch cover isn’t pulling down evenly. This could result in premature wear. It can also lead to poor performance.
Once all the bolts are snug, torque them down to 22 ft-lbs (30 Nm). Use the same tightening pattern as before. After torquing, remove the alignment tool. You’ve now successfully installed your clutch and are ready to refit the gearbox.
Want the Gearbox Removal Guide?
This post picks up after the gearbox removal. If you’re interested in a detailed walkthrough of that process, drop a comment below and I’ll write a separate guide.
Disclaimer: These are the steps I personally followed during this job. If you’re unsure or new to working on clutches, it’s always best to consult a professional mechanic.
